1.0WAMUhttps://wamu.orgadminhttps://wamu.org/author/admin/rich600338<blockquote class="wp-embedded-content" data-secret="t7S4ULwkYH"><a href="https://wamu.org/story/15/07/21/a_lifelong_surfer_explains_why_theres_no_such_thing_as_a_perfect_wave/">A Lifelong Surfer Explains Why There’s No Such Thing As A ‘Perfect’ Wave</a></blockquote><iframe sandbox="allow-scripts" security="restricted" src="https://wamu.org/story/15/07/21/a_lifelong_surfer_explains_why_theres_no_such_thing_as_a_perfect_wave/embed/#?secret=t7S4ULwkYH" width="600" height="338" title="“A Lifelong Surfer Explains Why There’s No Such Thing As A ‘Perfect’ Wave” — WAMU" data-secret="t7S4ULwkYH" frameborder="0" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" scrolling="no" class="wp-embedded-content"></iframe><script type="text/javascript"> /*! This file is auto-generated */ !function(c,d){"use strict";var e=!1,o=!1;if(d.querySelector)if(c.addEventListener)e=!0;if(c.wp=c.wp||{},c.wp.receiveEmbedMessage);else if(c.wp.receiveEmbedMessage=function(e){var t=e.data;if(!t);else if(!(t.secret||t.message||t.value));else if(/[^a-zA-Z0-9]/.test(t.secret));else{for(var r,s,a,i=d.querySelectorAll('iframe[data-secret="'+t.secret+'"]'),n=d.querySelectorAll('blockquote[data-secret="'+t.secret+'"]'),o=new RegExp("^https?:$","i"),l=0;l<n.length;l++)n[l].style.display="none";for(l=0;l<i.length;l++)if(r=i[l],e.source!==r.contentWindow);else{if(r.removeAttribute("style"),"height"===t.message){if(1e3<(s=parseInt(t.value,10)))s=1e3;else if(~~s<200)s=200;r.height=s}if("link"===t.message)if(s=d.createElement("a"),a=d.createElement("a"),s.href=r.getAttribute("src"),a.href=t.value,!o.test(a.protocol));else if(a.host===s.host)if(d.activeElement===r)c.top.location.href=t.value}}},e)c.addEventListener("message",c.wp.receiveEmbedMessage,!1),d.addEventListener("DOMContentLoaded",t,!1),c.addEventListener("load",t,!1);function t(){if(o);else{o=!0;for(var e,t,r,s=-1!==navigator.appVersion.indexOf("MSIE 10"),a=!!navigator.userAgent.match(/Trident.*rv:11\./),i=d.querySelectorAll("iframe.wp-embedded-content"),n=0;n<i.length;n++){if(!(r=(t=i[n]).getAttribute("data-secret")))r=Math.random().toString(36).substr(2,10),t.src+="#?secret="+r,t.setAttribute("data-secret",r);if(s||a)(e=t.cloneNode(!0)).removeAttribute("security"),t.parentNode.replaceChild(e,t);t.contentWindow.postMessage({message:"ready",secret:r},"*")}}}}(window,document); </script> https://wamu.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/20/finnegan_cloudbreak_p430_wide-cec520645d129f5aba3fecb179ef32f4c9d8d7cc.jpg35071972"Waves are not stationary objects in nature. They're not diamonds or roses or something that you just look at," says New Yorker journalist William Finnegan. His new memoir is called Barbarian Days.